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MBFW BEAUTY LOOKS: Eli by Elias Rumelis

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For this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Armin Morbach, creative director of Schwarzkopf, has created extraordinary hair and make-up looks for five participating designers. We captured the styling process in short step by step videos – starring here: Wioleta Psiuk

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ELI by Elias Rumelis

Collection Recap

How do you go through the process of reinvention without losing your core self? Designer Elias Rumelis can certainly say a thing or two about that. Informally known as the godfather of denim, the designer has launched multiple brands over the course of his career – each with a slightly different focus, yet always remaining true to his vision. His latest addition: ELI by Elias Rumelis, a new line that just launched globally at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. The line aims to showcase the designer’s vision on a more personal level, to let his imagination run free and away from the mainstream: “It’s not about having something special in your wardrobe. It’s about feeling special.” For his new label, Elias Rumelis also plays with contradictions and the idea of ownership by using the tag lines #NeverOwned and #AlwaysYours. The brand is deliberately promoting the pieces’ occasion-less qualities – they are meant to be worn whenever, wherever. Sticking to his perfectionist nature, Elias Rumelis commissioned his partner ateliers with a special task: not to produce a sample collection, but to craft a couple of the “unrealizable” designs by hand. The label’s mission is clear: “ELI by Elias Rumelis is designed to become yours beyond ownership. It’s made to take pride in being one-of-a-kind, in order to create impressions that last beyond a garment’s lifetime.”

Watch the full ELI by Elias Rumelis show AW21 here.

instagram/eli.by.eliasrumelis

elibyeliasrumelis.com

text by Kelly Niesen

edited by Melissa Frost

featured image: Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for MBFW

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Mercedes-Benz presents Tom Van der Borght 360°

Virtual Reality Experience

MBFW presents selected shows and installations as a virtual reality experience. We believe, this format is an important component for future digital fashion experiences.

View the runway show of Tom Van der Borght, presented by Mercedes-Benz, at Kraftwerk Berlin as a virtual visitor.

The 360° film is developed and realized by ARTVISIT.

instagram/artvisit_
youtube/artvisit
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MBFW BEAUTY LOOKS: Kilian Kerner

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For this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Armin Morbach, creative director of Schwarzkopf, has created extraordinary hair and make-up looks for five participating designers. We captured the styling process in short step by step videos – starring here: Riccardo Simonetti

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(A Day) Through My Phone: PB 0110


Diary

By now it seems quite natural to capture small slices of our everyday lives in pictures – it’s almost automatic. We took the occasion of MBFW Berlin as an excuse to ask some designers to make a point of it – and, of course, to share some exclusive insights into their daily work routine. One of those designers is Philipp Bree from PB 0110.

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1. I start almost every day with a bike ride through nature, about 30 min. During this ride I sort through my thoughts, take a breath and always discover something new – an infinitely important part of my workday.

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2. Part of my collection concept is inviting in different designers whose work I appreciate. It’s not a short term marketing idea – I have been working with designer and artist Ayzit Bostan for 8 years. I admire her gift of sensitive interventions. For the new collection, I asked her to design an interpretation of a Japanese sacoche bag. This bag is called AB 112, a combination of the initials of the designer and a number.

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3. A sacoche bag is characterized by the fact that it is very light, worn close to the body and has space for your most important personal items.

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4. We created the bag in a vegetable-tanned leather from a Belgian tannery that has been involved in sustainable tanning for more than 170 years and has been awarded with the Gold Standard of the Leather Working Group.

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5. The challenge in implementing the design was to find the right thickness of material, so that the zipper flow runs smoothly while keeping the bag as light as possible.

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6. It is made in a great factory in Germany and will already be available in three weeks. This is new for us – there are normally 4 months between presentation and launch. It is a good time to rethink. The model will be presented for the first time at DER BERLINER SALON x MBFW. We will start showing our completely new AW 21collection on the 4th of February. Please be in touch here: p.bree@pb0110.com

PB 01110 shows select pieces from the latest collection at GROUP EXHIBITION in DER BERLINER SALON × MBFW.

Find out more about PB 0110:

pb0110.com

instagram.com/pb0110

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MBFW Beauty Looks: Rebekka Ruétz

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For this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Armin Morbach, creative director of Schwarzkopf, has created extraordinary hair and make-up looks for five participating designers. We captured the styling process in short step by step videos.

Staying In…

FaceTime Photo Shoot by Søren Jepsen

During international fashion weeks, Søren Jepsen can usually be seen photographing inspiring street styles from all over the world. He founded his website The Locals back in 2007 to share these photos.

But since Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is digital this year – with no visitors for the first time, and therefore no street styles – the photographer ventured an experiment in collaboration with MBFW Berlin: He photographed well-known street style figures within their own four walls via FaceTime – in their favorite stay-at-home looks. The results – individually depending on lighting conditions, internet connection and quality of the smartphone cameras – can be found in this gallery.

MBFW Berlin would like to thank Søren Jepsen and the 15 participants who made this project possible – Alyssa Cordes, Julia Dalia, Sonia Lyson, Anaïs Eleni, Anuthida, Richy Koll, Elisa Schenke, Kevin Elezaj, Sylvia Haghjoo, Anh Poenix, Frankie Miles, Lois Opoku, Masha, Sarah Schaefer, Jacqueline Zelwis

Photos: Søren Jepsen/The Locals
Special thanks to Anna Peuckert

https://www.instagram.com/thelocals/?hl=de

https://thelocals.dk/

 

Concept & Production: Sophia Steube

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Rebekka Ruétz

Collection Recap

Designer Rebekka Ruétz decided to present one cohesive annual collection for her eponymous label. Merging two seasons – the Spring/Summer 2021 collection placID and the Fall/Winter 21/22 collection reSET – into one, her show was influenced by the events and challenges of the past year. “We are all being forced to go new ways, to slow down, to see everything from a distance. This offers us a possibility to rearrange things, to re-prioritize, even to reinvent ourselves,” the show notes stated. The designer took further inspiration from the Zillertal, a picturesque Tyrolean valley ideal for hiking and skiing. Presenting calm, down-to-earth looks that fit the theme, the Spring/Summer pieces reference the forest, dandelions, mountain lakes and playful mushroom spores. The designer incorporated upcycled orientation maps from the region, mixing them with colored denim and mesh. Soothing colors such as moss green, eggshell white and night black are complemented by burnt violet, blue and khaki – vibrant orange and lush green provide contrast. Relaxed silhouettes and unstructured shapes strengthen the underlying attitude of both collections. The Fall/Winter reSET pieces are dominated by “invitingly sublime and majestic yet formidably distant” images of mountains, but also by images of tracks in the snow “as a sign of human existence.” Comforting materials such as cotton and wool are the predominant choice, while fake fur is introduced as a symbol of animal protection. The colors: midnight black, cold-bleached beige and crisp white complemented by mountain blue, forest gray, snow white and raven black. To conclude, the show notes stated that “the pieces […] cannot save the world, but will focus on the beautiful and thus ease our everyday.”

Watch the full Rebekka Ruétz show AW21 here.

instagram/rebekkaruetz

rebekkaruetz.com

text by Kelly Niesen

edited by Melissa Frost

featured image: Jenny Haimerl

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Mercedes-Benz EQS Installation by Tom Van der Borght 360°

Virtual Reality Experience

MBFW presents selected shows and installations as a virtual reality experience. We believe, this format is an important component for future digital fashion experiences.

View the Mercedes-Benz EQS Installation by Tom van der Borght at Kraftwerk Berlin as a virtual visitor.

The 360° film is developed and realized by ARTVISIT.

instagram/artvisit_
youtube/artvisit
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Salon Talk: Inga Griese & Philipp Weber

The Correlation and Relevance of Ancient Craftmanship and Modern Design

In the second of three DBS Salon Talks, Inga Griese, editor-in-chief of Icon and presidium member of Fashion Council Germany, speaks with German product designer and artist Philipp Weber.

Philipp Weber’s work focuses on glass as a medium. He is Artistic Director of Analog Glass and Co-Owner of Berlin Glassworks, an initiative committed to the education, promotion and safeguarding of the intangible cultural heritage of glass making. He studied at the prestigious Design Academy Eindhoven and Universität der Künste Berlin. In 2018, he received the German Design Award in the newcomer category; in autumn 2020, he was part of the exhibition A Labour of Love curated by Li Edelkoort in Lille.

In conversation with Inga Griese, he talks about his understanding of craftmanship – and how it can be brought together with modern and innovative technologies.

Watch the full talk here.

philippweber.org

instagram/studiophilippweber

instagram/inga_griese

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