Esther Perbandt // AW22
Going back in time, Esther Perbandt found inspiration for her newest collection in long-kept memories from her childhood days. Ever since she was five years old, she visited the small village of Chomérac in the South of France multiple times, known for its silk production. One day, young Esther found a folder filled with drawings, photos, and explanations on how a silk spinning machine works. She knew immediately how big of an influence this would be.
Today, she premiered ‘Atelier Dream Machine’: A collection inspired by said folder. For the first time, the Berlin-based designer created her own fabric. The photographs and drawings were turned into a jacquard silk-linen fabric or digital prints, all produced in Italy with a speciality fabric maker.
Those newly created prints and fabric were turned into flowy maxi dresses with rope details, man shirts made out of silk and kimono or bomber jackets. Keeping it on brand while staying in the black colour range.
Esther Perbandt yet again proved that she is the queen of construction. Displaying a collection entirely in black and yet every piece is an absolute show stopper. We saw a lot of layers, may it skirts or jackets. To keep it interesting Perbandt opted for voluminous sleeves, whether in transparent tulle or a flower material, showing how diverse her designs are. Mixing not only different materials and patterns but also shapes – a menswear jacket was a combination of a blazer and a bomber jacket silhouette.
Highlights were the dresses that came in an asymmetrical and very voluminous shape or a flowy slip dress design. Not to forget the construction masterpieces that are her jackets in which she incorporated scarfs.
The designer created a matching jewellery line as well as her own boots with a block heel like aesthetic to complete the looks, underlining her primary approach to design.
The whole collection potrayed strong, warrior like women and men. Even though Esther Perbandt showed a lot of flowy materials and soft shapes, the overall atmosphere showed that she designs for confident individuals.
For more updates from this seasons MBFW Berlin follow mbfw.berlin on Instagram.
Words by Lea Egerer