Designer Rebekka Ruétz decided to present one cohesive annual collection for her eponymous label. Merging two seasons – the Spring/Summer 2021 collection placID and the Fall/Winter 21/22 collection reSET – into one, her show was influenced by the events and challenges of the past year. “We are all being forced to go new ways, to slow down, to see everything from a distance. This offers us a possibility to rearrange things, to re-prioritize, even to reinvent ourselves,” the show notes stated. The designer took further inspiration from the Zillertal, a picturesque Tyrolean valley ideal for hiking and skiing. Presenting calm, down-to-earth looks that fit the theme, the Spring/Summer pieces reference the forest, dandelions, mountain lakes and playful mushroom spores. The designer incorporated upcycled orientation maps from the region, mixing them with colored denim and mesh. Soothing colors such as moss green, eggshell white and night black are complemented by burnt violet, blue and khaki – vibrant orange and lush green provide contrast. Relaxed silhouettes and unstructured shapes strengthen the underlying attitude of both collections. The Fall/Winter reSET pieces are dominated by “invitingly sublime and majestic yet formidably distant” images of mountains, but also by images of tracks in the snow “as a sign of human existence.” Comforting materials such as cotton and wool are the predominant choice, while fake fur is introduced as a symbol of animal protection. The colors: midnight black, cold-bleached beige and crisp white complemented by mountain blue, forest gray, snow white and raven black. To conclude, the show notes stated that “the pieces […] cannot save the world, but will focus on the beautiful and thus ease our everyday.”
Watch the full Rebekka Ruétz show AW21 here.
text by Kelly Niesen
edited by Melissa Frost
featured image: Jenny Haimerl